Start saving juice, milk and soda bottles now for deep watering assistance in the heat of the summer. Puch a hole in the cap and fasten it with a twist tie to the bottle so you won’t lose it. After you have planted your tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, zucchini and trees and shrubs, punch holes in the bottoms of the bottles and sink them about half way in the ground next to the crowns of the plants. Keep the tops on until you are ready to water. Fill a bottle with water and as soon as it empties into the soil, replace the cap to avoid trapping critters inside the bottles.

Toting things around the garden can really become a chore without the aid of a wheelbarrow or cart. The size of your cart will depend on the size of your garden. Don’t get something too large that it becomes too heavy to move when full. A good wheelbarrow has a stable stance, an air-filled tire and a deep tray. A garden cart should have spoked wheels and flat bed for dumping or shoveling out dirt.  Remember to maintain your tools by cleaning them with a steel brush after each use, rub wood handles with linseed oil. Sharpen your tools before winter an check and tighten screw often

Get your perennials stakes ready and in place before the plants grow more than six inches tall. Use perennial rings, stake interwoven with twine, or woody branches stuck into the ground. Once the foliage grows, it will engulf the support so that it won’t show at all. When planting annuals, don’t disturb the rootball and splay the roots. Research shoes that they will establish faster if the rootball is put directly into the soil without being disturbed. However, do splay the roots of container grown perennials, shrubs and trees to help establish them more quickly.

When the last frost is over, it’s time to plant your warm season crops, like tomatoes and peppers. Start your seed for melons and squash. Begin pinching your annuals and perennials to make the plants fill in and produce more blooms. It may hurt to lose part of a plant or blossom, but be ruthless and pinch out the tips of annual and vegetable transplants when you put them in the ground. They will thank you for it by producing side buds, which makes them stocky and filled with flowers.

Let’s review all the aspects of choosing a healthy plant: The quality of the nursery. The condition of the specific plant you are interested in: it’s shape, is it insect and disease free? Does it have a healthy root system? Has it been neglected by the staff? Are weeds growing in it? Has it been watered recently? Is the root ball of the tree or shrub solid? And finally, plants in bud will transplant and thrive better than plants in flower. When all is said and done, if you’ve just got to have the plant go ahead and buy it. With a little pampering it should continue to grow and give you many years of enjoyment.

Here are a few more things to consider before you purchase. If the plant has a thick or woody stem, make sure there are no crack or scars. Even prior damage can weaken a plant. Weeds in the pot are competing with the plant for nutrients. They also signal some neglect on the part of the nursery staff. When buying a called and burlapped tree or shrub, the root ball should feel solid. If it appears broken, there’s a good chance the roots are dry and the plant will suffer.

Weeds are a fact of gardening life. Hoes can make quick work of weeds and be used to break up soil that isn’t compacted. For strength look for a rolled steel blade that is riveted to the handle. Garden forks are slightly shorter and thicker than pitch forks and have square rather than flat tines. Nothing works as well as fork to break up soil. You will also need two types of rakes: yard rakes with tines with some spring will help you clean out garden debris. A heavy metal rake with teeth about three inches long are necessary to smooth out newly tilled beds

When looking to purchase new plants, inspect them closely for signs of insects or disease. Look at both sides of the leaves and check the pitting soil. Signs can include: blackened areas, holes, spots, mushy areas, stickiness and distortions. Don’t neglect the root system. If the roots are growing out of the bottom of the plant, the plant may be stressed and take time to recover. If the plant lifts out of the container very easily and doesn’t have a lot of roots, it was probably recently repotted and could use more time to become garden worthy.

Pruning, deadheading and shaping plants goes on all year in the garden. Good pruners will not only make your job easier, it will make a cleaner cut on the plants and not tear or rip. Look for pruners with replaceable parts and blades that can be sharpened. Prunes can be costly, so try holding a few different pruners to see what feels comfortable. Saws can be used to remove larger and thicker branches on large shrubs and trees. You can also purchase saws and loppers that are attached to an extension pole to reach higher branches safely from the ground.

We continue on how to choose a healthy plant form the nursery. Evaluate the foliage on the plants you’re looking to purchase. Are the leaves green, shiny and lush? Wilting or yellowing plants are stressed and may not recover. Consider the shape of the plant. Is it compact and full, with multiple stems? Taller is often not better. It could mean the plant had been straining for light and had grown thin and spindly.

Garden shovels have round pointed blades for moving soil, digging holes and planting. A flat edge on top of the blade provides a better surface for your foot. You will probably wind up with a couple of different sized trowels in your tool shed. Steel blades will last longest and soft rubber handles are easier on the grip. A narrow blade is good for digging in solid soil and wide, rounded blades remover soil faster.

At first glance, all the plants in the nursery look lush and glorious. Usually they are. However, there are a few quick checks that can help prevent you from bringing home a “lemon”. Take some time to look over your purchase carefully, before you introduce a problem into your garden. One of the most important factors is the quality of the nursery you plan on buying your plants from. Take in an overview of their plant department. Look to see that the majority of the plants seem healthy and well cared for.

The right tool makes any job easier and that is no exception in the garden. Gardeners collect many tools over the years. But there is always one tool that they absolutely couldn’t do without. If you are just starting out, there are a few basic tools that will get you started. Don’t spend a fortune on tools until you’ve had a chance to try a few and see what your preferences are. Here are a couple of things to remember when purchasing your tools: Forges tools will cost more, but they are more durable and long handles provide more leverage. Short handles provide more control, but can be hard on the back.

A two inch layer of mulch that doesn’t touch the bark can help prevent wide soil fluctuations during the winter. Use compost shredded bark or straw in late november or early december after the plants are fully dormate and the soil is cold.

Keep watering even after the ground is frozen and the leaves have fallen. Wrap the trunks of thin bark of young trees in late novemeber for protection. But be sure to remove the wrap in march.

Because Spring is the new time for growth, most people think of planting trees and shrubs then. But cool temperaturs and adequate rainfall, make Fall a good time to plant as well.

Plant trees and shrubs early enough in fall, for plants to develop a good root system. Soil temperaturs should be well above 55 degrees, at the depth of 6 inches at planting time.

Plant trees and shrubs early enough in the fall, for the plant to develop a good root system. Water thouroughly when needed to supply atleast one inch of water per week. Continue watering until the ground is frozen even after deciduous plants have lost their leaves.